This is the easiest floor in your house to look after, which is most of why people buy it. There are only a few things that genuinely hurt it, and they are worth knowing.
Road salt is the main thing that will make a floor look tired. It does not damage the coating the way it damages bare concrete, but the white residue builds a haze and it collects in the flake texture.
The fix is simple: rinse the floor whenever the weather gets above freezing long enough to let it dry. A hose and ten minutes a few times through the winter keeps a floor looking new. Letting a salt crust sit from December to March is what makes people think their floor dulled.
None of it stains a properly coated floor if it does not live there. Wipe it up, degrease, rinse. What stains bare concrete just sits on top of a coating, which is the whole point of having one.
A polyaspartic top coat does not need to be stripped and resealed like a wax floor. It gets slowly worn by grit over many years in the traffic lanes. If a floor ever needs refreshing, it can be lightly abraded and given a new top coat without disturbing the base or the flake, which is a fraction of the cost and the disruption of the original install.
Yes, at moderate pressure and with the tip kept moving and back from the surface. Do not hold a narrow tip in one spot at close range, especially at an edge or a repair line.
Most come up with warm water and a soft deck brush. For stubborn marks a bit of simple green and some agitation does it. Avoid anything solvent-based.
Not if you are careful. The coating is hard, but a steel point load dragged sideways will scratch anything. Put a piece of plywood or a jack pad down and you will never have a problem.
Tell us the room, the rough size and your town. You get a written price, not a two-hour pitch. Fastest way is to text a photo of the floor to (815) 585-1750.
